nationaldagen

the prime minister who, right after finland's independence from russia, vigorously pursued a plan to model the government and army on germany's - his name literally means pighead. (this plan made the war's military hero, mannerheim, so sad that he went into self-imposed exile in sweden.)

for once quite germanely: tomorrow is finland's independence day. everything is closed and everyone is supposed to burn two special finnish candles in the window. "what else are you supposed to do?" i asked my classmates. "watch a lot of tv," said noora. "you have to look for tuntematon sotilas when it comes on. and watch the president's ball on tv and talk about everybody's dresses."